Uke and Kakeroma are two other sparsely populated islands lying close to each other and close to the main, large Amami island. These and numerous smaller uninhabited islands and rocks are all part a complex rias landscape that makes for great kayaking. Calmer inland waters exist where the islands face each other; this is also where most villages are located. Blessed with calm weather, we instead chose to skirt the Pacific fringe of the archipelago, with its uninterrupted wilderness. Wild goats scaling the precarious cliffs overhead were the principal inhabitants here. The coastline was riddled with enjoyable rock gardens and labyrinthine caves we could not resist exploring. Perfect campsites abounded on beaches and grassy shelves where the coast was less steep. Though it was the height of holiday season, the whole place seemed completely deserted.