Fukashima is a rather mountainous place but where the sea has nearly eroded the island in two, there is an acre or two of relatively flat land. “There are no uninhabited islands in Japan”, a ship’s captain once told us on the way to Tsushima, and in that spirit, a couple dozen houses cling here to the narrow isthmus. The ramshackle appearance of the village was natural enough to be picturesque. What do people do here for a living? we asked ourselves – maybe they fish these waters? – but a lively throng of young sunburned children confirmed that the place is thriving, and gave us the feeling of islands much farther to the south, away from the bustle of advanced civilization.